Monday, 5 February 2018

Anytone Apollo 1 "10 Meter" CB mod

On a recent road trip to Detroit I spent almost 12 hours of silence in my car. My Ham radio was on but nobody was heard. I have found this to be the case on many road trips of late. That's why I installed an HF radio into the car - maybe I can talk to people further afar? Not on this trip at least. So I tuned my HF rig to the CB channels and was able to have some interaction with other travelers on my route.

This led me to thinking that I need a CB in my car. But I don't have room for another display on my dashboard. Looking around the usual online places I found this Anytone Apollo 1 "10 Meter" CB. Out of the box it comes preset to 40 channels between 29.4-29.6MHz. Great! I have a license for that. I had also read reports that it could be modified to cover other frequencies such as CB too.

The manual isn't too bad for a Chinese radio. And it does indeed explain how to change the 10 Meter frequencies. However, one has to take it apart and remove some solder links to get it going on other frequencies. The manual does not tell you how to do that. So I took mine apart to see what I could find. The usual caveats apply. Do this mod at your own risk. Your mileage may vary. I take no responsibility. Ask your doctor if Viagra is right for you.

Remove the power from the radio and unplug the microphone. Using a T8 Torx bit unscrew the bottom panel and also the face plate. This will reveal 2 solder jumpers at the very front of the board almost in the middle going across. See the below pictures for guidance.



Using a solder pump or wick remove the solder from the 2 Jumpers being careful not to disturb the SMD parts just above the pads.


Before putting the covers back on power up the radio and check that it still works. You should notice the display now shows "EUH 01" indicating that your radio is on CB channel 1.

Just for good measure do a factory reset too.

  • Power the radio off by using the mic "POW" button.  
  • Hold the "FUNC/FRQ" and "POW" buttons at the same time. The display will read "RE S"
  • Release the "FUNC/FRQ" button. The radio will power off.
Here are some before and after shots of my rig.



Before putting the covers back on the radio take a look at the face plate. Can you see how much room there is on the inside of it? It occurs to me that one could add 2 small toggle switches to the plate. Wire them to the solder pads on the radio's PCB and now you can dynamically change the frequency of the radio without a soldering iron. I've ordered some small switches. More about that when I get them. 

Tuesday, 23 January 2018

Raspberry Pi/Echolink using a USB-RIM Lite

I built an Echolink interface for the W4FCV repeater in Floyd, VA. This page is not so much to brag about it but rather to write down some notes for later reference.

The repeater in Floyd is a System Fusion capable machine with an Arcom RC210 repeater controller attached. The Echolink system will connect to one of the 3 "radio" ports on the controller. A look at the Repeater builder website shows a number of sound card interfaces that will directly connect to the back of a number of different radio's and repeater controllers. I bought one that fit the RC210 directly.

I shall not be explaining how the various steps are performed. They are well documented on their respective websites.

Things I used:

What I did:

1) Install latest Raspian Lite image onto the SD card. Make sure to enable SSH.
2) Install SD card into the RPi. Attach an Ethernet cable and power.
3) Log in to the RPi and set up the environment with "sudo rasp-config".
4) Disable the WiFi and Bluetooth radio's as we'll be using Ethernet. Edit /boot/config.txt 

# Free up some memory by allocating less RAM to the graphics
gpu_mem=16
# Increase current to USB ports
max_usb_current=1
# Turn off WiFi and Bluetooth
dtoverlay=pi3-disable-wifi
dtoverlay=pi3-disable-bt 
5) Install SVXLink per the instructions https://github.com/sm0svx/svxlink/wiki/InstallSrcHwRpi
6) Configure the SVXLink config file http://www.svxlink.org/doc/man/man5/svxlink.conf.5.html. The USB-RIM interface required HID_RAW settings and the HID_PTT on GPIO3 also.



Thursday, 30 November 2017

Funny things you see at Microcenter

So I was at my local Microcenter this lunchtime and I saw this on display. It might be a little "wishful thinking" But I get where they are going.


Yep. You read that right. Apparently Microcenter think that Death Stars are "emerging technologies". I wonder when they'll start selling flying cars?

Friday, 10 November 2017

Mic interface for RemAud

In a previous article I built a simple isolated audio interface to go between my radio and a PC for remote operation of the radio. This time I built an interface so that I could use the microphone from the radio on the remote PC 3 floors away.

I decided to use the mic from the HF rig as this would give the most accurate user experience. The user would simply pick up the microphone, press the PTT button and speak. The interface also has a USB to serial interface which allows the PTT to inform the computer that the user is in fact speaking.


And of course I designed a PCB for it. You can get it at Oshpark


Simply connect normal sound and usb cables from this interface to your PC and then plug your Yaesu dynamic mic into the other side. Tell RemAud to use the CTS line of the new USB-serial interface.

I've added an audio buffer with a 300hz filter to clean up the mic a little. This might not be needed and so you can simply omit most of those parts and jumper across from the junction of C4 to C6 but do leave C6 installed as there is DC power coming from your PC to power an electret mic.

Feline hunting

There are many cats that inhabit my house. None of them are mine. This one is Dee. She's a black and white Domestic Shorthaired cat and she has caught a mouse. It's still alive. If this was a video you'd see the mouse panting with fear. I caught this mouse and released it back outside.


An hour or so later I was driving down my street returning from a shopping errand when I saw her again. This time she's got something much bigger. She's nabbed a squirrel.


Turns out that this is not Dee but rather her neighbourhood doppleganger. We've taken to calling this cat "Double Dee". There you go Dee. That's how you hunt! Next time bring something home that we can all eat.

Isolated sound card interface

I've been working towards getting my girlfriends HF rig remotely controlled. We have it installed in the sun room at the back of the house but her office is up in the attic on the 3rd floor.  This presents a problem as not only do we need to control the radio but we also need to hear what it receives and also send it some audio to transmit.

The radio control is easily achieved by using Ham Radio Deluxe and is very well documented elsewhere. For the audio portion I am using RemAud by DF3CB which is also very well documented on his website. What's not so well documented is the hardware that one might need be able to both receive and transmit audio from another location. It should be noted that whilst I am doing this from another room 3 floors away it could equally be done from 3000 miles away over the Internet.

If you are familiar with Skype then you'll know that it uses the sound system installed into your PC. The microphone is usually sourced from your webcam and the speakers let you hear the other person. RemAud is a similar application. It uses the same audio sources. And that's where the difficulty begins. Your HF rig cannot use the mic on your webcam.

Luckily this problem has been solved many times before. A simple radio-computer sound interface is all that's needed on the radio end. It needs to move audio from the PC to the radio and back. It also needs to key the PTT to enable the radio's transmitter. This is what I came up with.


It's an isolated audio interface with USB based PTT keying. I made it from the junk box. The Audio part is a copy of the many transformer based sound card interfaces one can find on the 'net. The transformers isolate the electrical path between the radio and the computer in an effort to reduce computer noise getting into the radio.


The USB part is a USB to serial interface that I had meant to use in an Arduino project but never got around to it. I added a small bit of circuitry to invert the signal from controller chip and also isolate the PTT from the computer.

I also added a USB sound card adapter to the PC to manage the sound instead of using its built in sound facilities. I'll be moving it all to the rear sockets of the PC and there are no sound outputs there.

It works very well. However, I am not happy with it. The PTT should really be isolated via a opto-isolator and it's larger than I'd like. So I set about designing another interface. This time it's more compact and has "proper" sockets etc. It's also fully isolated and can also key some CW too.


I designed a board for it too. You can get it at Oshpark


And here's the finished result. It works perfectly. It's also much smaller and now fully isolated. I used a PS/2 male-male extension cable that I got from Microcenter to connect the data port on the rig to the interface. At $8 it was not worth my time or effort to try soldering a cable myself.


There was a caveat that took me a few days to work out. Direct from the factory the FT232 USB-serial chip has its signals inverted. This is correct as it actually converts from TTL to USB, expecting another chip to do level shifting up to the +/-12v that is RS232. But the chip makers have thought of that. They have a tool on their drivers website that allows you to change the signalling on any of the pins. I inverted DTR and RTS so that they would go high when applied thus powering the LED in the opto-isolator. 

The Bill Of Materials is quite trivial;

  • FTDI FT232RL USB to Serial chip x1
  • 10K x1
  • 1K x3
  • 3MM LED x1
  • 0.1uf x2
  • 10uF x1
  • Mini-USB 'B' x1
  • 4N25 x2
  • 3.5mm audio socket x3
  • 42TM016 600:600 audio transformer x2
  • PS/2 6 pin mini DIN socket x1

Monday, 23 October 2017

Remote control of your radio via "CAT"

I've moved into a new house. The only room in the house conducive to radio is a conservatory or sun room at the back of the house. But It's not ideal for all the trappings of ham radio and so I looked into some sort of remote control over my house data LAN from my study in the attic.

I'm not going to document here what I did but I used Ham Radio Deluxe on a small footprint Windows PC and was able to remotely control it with HRD installed on my Linux box. It all works like a dream. It uses something called CAT or Computer Aided Transceiver which is just a fancy way of saying that the computer can control the radio.

Well, works like a dream might be a bit of a stretch. It _was_ working like a dream. Then suddenly it stopped working. So I descend the 3 floors down to the sun room only to discover that the radio was being controlled by a different sort of CAT.



Meet Elvis. He likes to sit on electronics. I assume it's because they get warm?