Back in 2014 I described a weather satellite receiving station that I had built with one of the last remaining RIG RX2 receivers ever sold. They went on sale to clear out the inventory and so I bought the last 5. Most of them went to local schools. I had been a Remote Imaging Group member for quite some time ever since the launch of the RX2 and indeed created a few mods for it along the way. I've been chasing this particular demon since 1997
Back then things were pretty primitive. A wideband FM receiver tuned to 137.5MHzish fed audio into a computer. Some software then listened to that audio and decoded a fax. And that was it.
Modernizing an RX2 to Y2K technology levels |
In the picture above we can see my attempt at updating the RX2 to Y2K level technology. I've created a breakout board (under the LCD) to make accessing the various signals coming from the multi-pin header on the top right of the green board easier. I've also added an ATMega328 (of Arduino fame) on its own board to drive the LCD. The original RX2 had a single 7 segment LED display to display its channel number. The "dot" on the display was used to indicate that the receiver was in scanning mode. I wrote a bit of code that looked at the various lines of the LED to see what channel number it was currently on and then transposed that into some LCD display text. It was a total hack but it worked very well! I also converted the RS232 control port to USB.
Well that was then. Between then and now I've moved house a few times as well as stupidly lost my RX2. But that has given me the opportunity to upgrade my receiving station to more modern technology. Today one would use a USB based Software Defined Radio and a Raspberry Pi or similar computer.
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RTL-SDR USB Sticks |
There are 2 of them screwed to the wall in the above picture. Simply feed them with the correct antenna, plug them into a computer (I'm using a Raspberry Pi 3), configure the software and then wait for the satellite to go by.
Speaking of antennas, here's a picture of a very simple to make linear polarized antenna that I made from a broken steel measuring tape. It's simply a few lengths of the tape cut to length (520mm/20.5") and then attached to some coax. I used my 3D printer to create a mounting point for all of the elements. The antenna behaves just like a turnstile type but with slightly less gain.This antenna is called a V-Dipole. It is a basic dipole antenna but its elements are pushed forward so that it creates a 120 degree V shape. As with any dipole, one side is known as the "driven element" and connected to the inner of the coax while the other side is known as the "counterpoise" and is connected to the coax shield. By placing the driven element on the right hand side of the antenna we can create an antenna that is still linear in design but has some limited emulation of Right Hand Circular Polarization (RHCP). By placing the driven element on the left we can emulate a Left Hand Circular Polarized (LHCP) antenna. Ha! And you thought making antennas was hard!?
Upon closer inspection of the picture to the right it would appear that an antenna element is missing. Not so. The reflector elements below the main antenna must all be connected to the coax shield (there's a wire running up the back of the pole for this) and must entirely encircle the main antenna to create the illusion of a full circle. The reflector is not necessary but does improve the antenna's reception ability by as much as 3dB so its worth doing.
There's about 75 feet of RG8x coax connecting the antenna from the roof of my apartment building to the receiver on the wall in the garage. According to the many online coax loss calculators the coax presents an approximate 3dB loss in signal level. 3dB is roughly half of the signal lost to the coax and significantly diminishes an already weak signal (it has come all the way from outer space!).
To counteract this loss I found a VHF preamp in my junk box. It is a very old kit from a long defunct but popular electronics kit supplier. This item was designed for use on the 145MHz amateur radio band but its input filter can be tuned over a range of about +/- 25MHz and so I "ghetto tuned" it to the 137MHz weather satellite band using my SDR software looking for a peak in the noise floor.
The picture on the right shows my SDR software tuned to the 137MHz weather satellite band. It's a little hard ot see but there are 3 blue stripes in the bottom right corner of the picture. The aim was to make this blue stripe (known as a "waterfall") brighter. The waterfall descends in real time down the screen. The lower part of is the before where the preamp's input filter was tuned to an unknown frequency. The middle part is where my tuning stuck was inserted into the adjustment coil on the filter. The top part is a little brighter than the "before" waterfall. You get the idea. Fiddling with the coil moves the preamp's reception window up or down in frequency. As we say in ham radio, "tune for maximum smoke". Peaking the filter on a signal is very difficult but increasing the noise floor is somewhat easy with the right tools.Here's the finished article wrapped in marine heat shrink and installed into the coax just below the antenna on the roof. In theory the preamp delivers an added 20dB of gain and so should more than overcome any coax losses and maybe even add a little improvement to the desired signal.